Which Redline Gear Oil for 2007 C6 Differentia
Oil Recommendations and Give-and-take Thread for FAQ (two Viewers)
- Thread starter Romer
- Start date
- Watchers 67
Romer
fatherofdaughterofromer
- #1
Switching to Synthetic over 100,000 miles
Oil Viscosity
How to Read Oil Weights
On High Mileage Oil
Oil Analysis
Oil Grouping Give-and-take
Oil Filters
Links on Oil Topics
General Oil Discussions - This is 3 years of posts, opinions and other tidbits from cary and RavenTai
Updated June 2007 to include a give-and-take on Change in Dexron ATF, see Post #28
The majority of this FAQ comes from Cary and RavenTai and the eighty'due south forum would like to thank them for their continued back up. We have taken their posts over the last iii years to multiple questions and placed them in this FAQ. In fact, 90% of this FAQ was adult from extracting their posts from three years and compiling the information. They also provided input and a review before release of this FAQ. It should be noted that the majority of the data from RavenTai and Cary reflects their time spent looking at used oil assay (UOA's), discussions, and MSDS sheets on the various products. Our recommendations are based on oils that have consistently performed well in UOA's, their availability, and pricing.
Per the FSM the fluid recommendations are as follows:
Engine oil
Dry fill 8.0 liters (8.5 Us qts, seven.0 Imp. qts)
Drain and refill w/ Oil filter change vii.four liters (7.8 The states qts, 6.5 Imp. qts)
w/o Oil filter change half-dozen.9 liters (7.3 Us qts, vi.1 Imp qts)
API class SH, Energy-Conserving II multigrade
engine oil or ILSAC multigrade engine oil and
recommended viscosity oil, with SAE 5W-30 being
preferred engine oil
Differential oil
Front w/o Dfferential lock 2.fourscore liters (2.9 US qts, two.5 lmp. qts)
w/ Dfferential lock 2.65 liters (2.8 US qts, 2.3 lmp. qts)
Rear three.25 liters (3.4 US qts, 2.ix lmp. qts)
Hypoid gear oil API GL-5
To a higher place -xviii°C (0°F) SAE xc
Beneath -18°C (0°F) SAE 80W-ninety or 80W
Manual
xi.0 liters (11.6 US qts, 9.7 lmp. qts)
1.9 liters (two.0 United states of america qts, 1.7 lmp. qts)
ATF DEXRON®II
Engine coolant:
w/ Front heater 12.5 liters (13.ii US qts, 11.one lmp. qts)
w/ Front heater and rear heaters xiii.iv liters (14.2 US qts, 11.8 lmp. qts)
Ethylene-glycol base
Romer
fatherofdaughterofromer
- Thread starter
- #2
Telling someone which is the all-time oil is like telling someone which is the best Ice Cream. There is no 1 true answer. Everyone has a different opinion. However, this forum has two individuals who would count every bit oil experts. This thread contains their and other forum members Opinions and should be used as such. There is a lot of discussion on bobistheoilguy.com and you tin always search there as well.
Electric current Favorites are:
1) Mobil i 0w-40. This is a not bad oil, but some take had high consumption with it, others tin can't find it.
22) Mobil i Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40 (Formerly Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 5w-40). I know that it says Diesel, ignore that office. It is relabeled Mobil Delvac 1, and designed as a fleet oil (gas and diesel engines). Many believe that this is the all-time oil in the Mobil 1 lineup.
3) Castrol 0w-30 aka German Castrol (THIS OIL APPEARS DISCONTINUED SO LOOK CAREFULLY AT THE BOTTLES Earlier You Purchase). You lot have to exist careful with this one equally there are 2 versions, a US made Group Three and a German language Fabricated Group IV oil. If you lot desire to run this one yous have to look carefully at the back of the bottle for those magic words "Product of Germany" or "imported from Germany". The back will as well deport BMW LL-01, MB 229.3 and 229.v approvals.
4) Shell Rotella T 5w-twoscore Synthetic. This is a group III oil that has turned in consistently skillful results at bobistheoilguy.com. It is the value leader of the agglomeration when you can go it at Walmart for $12.88 per gallon. If you take to purchase information technology at $5.00 a quart, buy one of the others above.
5) Mobil 1 Hi Mileage 10w-forty. This is a newcomer and availability has been sparse but information technology should be a great choice and piece of work well when it tin be found.
6) Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w-xxx. Brand Certain IT IS THIS Exact MOBIL ane 10W-thirty SINCE THEY HAVE iii Dissimilar VERSIONS. Aye, I know that I said no Mobil 1 30 weight oils, and so why this i? This i, similar the German Castrol, is formulated on the heavy end of the thirty weight scale and meets ACEA A3 specs (HTHS of 3.half-dozen).
I am not certain what exactly is unlike only if you have a pick become the non "suitable for" bottles.
The major brands are all getting pretty good. If you are in a mild climate (temps above 40F), the Chevron Delo 400 15w-40 appears unbeatable, and many times turns in numbers close to the synthetics. For those in colder climates, in the winter, run a 5w-30 if you lot employ mineral and choice your choices from Chevron, Havoline, Pennzoil, or Mobil. The only reason I don't mention castrol GTX is their mineral oils seem to have pretty crummy low temp pump specs. Valvoline is excluded because their All Climate has shown poor operation, only the Maxilife is supposed to be pretty adept and is available in 5w-30.
I was always a Valvoline fan, simply after reading the oil assay (bodily testing of oil run in cars), I was surprised at how poor Valvoline performed compared to some other dino oils. On boilerplate the two best performing dino oils are 1) Chevron Supreme, and 2) Penzoil Purbase. I had heard good things about Chevron oils before, but prior to this had never heard skillful things virtually Penzoil. BTW, Chevron is available at Costco.
Many people volition offset to discuss sludge when Penzoil is mentioned, unremarkably saying something like "my mechanic says Penzoil causes sludge problems." Penzoil and other Pennsylvania crudes have had problems with sludge. The thing is these problems were 30+ years ago when they were group I oils with 1970's additive packages. Sludge has not been a problem with these oils for a long fourth dimension and exercise not merit any further give-and-take because the issues were and so long ago. Also, note that Penzoil and Quaker State are the same company and their oils are commonly identical.
1) Redline Gear Lube 75w-ninety- Gear and Tranny Lube are where Redline made their name.
2) Mobil 1 Gear Lube
3) Amsoil Gear Lube
iv) Chevron Delo Gear Lube ESI 80W-xc - https://www.cbest.chevron.com/generated/MSDS/PDS7664186.PDF
BTW, I have never seen a darn scrap of departure in Mileage with Synthetics. I merely prefer the added protection and the longer life they requite drive train components.
From Romer - As well, if you are running a machine locker (Detroit/Aussie/Other) in the rear, running the heavier gear oil (140W) volition quiet information technology down
Romer
fatherofdaughterofromer
- Thread starter
- #3
Switching to Synthetic Oil in College Mileage Vehicles
Does switching from a petroleum-based oil to a fully synthetic oil on a higher mileage vehicle (75,000 miles) have whatever harmful furnishings? I've heard that the synthetic oil, because it is cleaner, may actually loosen some of the build-up from petroleum oil and has the potential of clogging the pump. Is this true or does ane simply need to change the filter more oft for the first few thousand miles after switching? Thanks
-- Michael Ritzke, Appleton, WI
When switching to Mobil 1 in college mileage vehicles, nosotros recommend an initial curt (2,000 to 3,000 miles) oil modify, both oil and filter. This will allow Mobil 1 to make clean some of the engine deposits that take accumulated over fourth dimension. Following this initial brusque oil modify, continue with your normal oil change interval.
You should be fine switching to synthetic, I have done and then on several cars with over 100,000 miles with no problems (in ane I even had lower oil consumption). The reason that y'all hear that you shouldn't switch on high mile cars comes from the original Mobil one back in the 80's when they didn't put a seal sweller in the oil. With older cars that had marginal seals the extra cleaning in the Mobil would affluent all the gunk out and they would leak like mad. Once mobile started to put the seal swell in, the trouble went away.
Romer
fatherofdaughterofromer
- Thread starter
- #four
Viscosity is a measure out of the resistance of a fluid to deformation nether shear stress. It is commonly perceived as "thickness", or resistance to pouring. Viscosity describes a fluid's internal resistance to period and may be thought of as a mensurate of fluid friction. Thus, water is "thin", having a low viscosity, while vegetable oil is "thick" having a high viscosity.
1FZ-Atomic number 26 recommended oil viscosity from Australia
Fahrenheit
19 to 100___20w-50
14 to 100___15w-40
0 to 100____10w-thirty
-22 to 46 ___5w-30
Celsius
-seven to 38___20w50
-10 to 38__15w40
-18 to 38__10w30
-30 to 8___5w30
Hither are my (Cary's) thoughts
Directly weight oil- Don't waste matter your time. At that place is no advantage
20w-40- Not any thicker than 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-twoscore. For extraordinarily hot climates yous would footstep upward to a xw-50 oil (in that location shouldn't be a demand though). The reason that you don't see 20w-40 anymore is that the other multi viscosity oils accept its place. So why did it e'er exist? Because back in the nighttime ages of multiviscosity oils, the viscosity modifiers and pour point depressants needed to make a mineral oil multiweight would pause down quickly and cause sludge. The wider the oils weight bridge the more modifiers needed the more sludge created. In the past 30 years the base stocks for mineral oil and the viscosity modifiers and pour betoken depresants have improved considerably. Today there is really no problem with sludging from viscosity modifiers and pour signal depresants. They nonetheless pause down, but much slower and without the crud left behind. Synthetics tend to need less of these additives and it is widely speculated that Mobil 1 10w-30 does not in fact have any viscosity modifiers or cascade indicate depresants (note this is dissimilar than detergent)
Romer
fatherofdaughterofromer
- Thread starter
- #v
…..When looking at oil, the first number refers to how the oil acts when cold , i.east. 0w means information technology pumps like 0 weight oil when it is thirty beneath, 5w similar v weight, 10w like 10 weight and and then on. The second number refers to how the oil acts at operating temperature and is the existent weight of the oil. So when y'all look at Honda (and Fords) the 0W-20 oil acts like 20 weight oil when hot. 10w-thirty acts like 30 weight when hot. 0w-forty acts like twoscore weight when hot and give greater film forcefulness and is thicker than thirty weight. It is entirely different than the honda oil.
At that place is a reason that y'all have not seen oil similar 0w-40 until recently. In order to get a mineral oil to act as a multiweight, you must add together viscosity enhancers which break down over fourth dimension. The wider the spread, the more modifiers. Constructed, because the base stock is much more stable, does not require virtually the amount of modifiers to be multigrade. Example Mobil 1 10w-30 does non require viscosity modifiers to be multigrade. With the new constructed formulas it takes very few modifiers to meet the 0w-xl spec, and the oil is stable.
The new 0w-40 Mobil 1 is 1 of the few oils that meets the very strict MB 229.5 spec, and is factory fill for Porsche and Mercedes. Cars from Europe have used heavier, and continue to use heavier oil, due to the college sustained speeds and heavier loads that their engines are subject to (Think about a 1.eight liter 130 horsepower car running full throttle on the Autobahn for hours, versus an American V-viii running at 80 mph for hours, big difference in load).
You lot should too exist aware that not all synthetics are created equal. Manifestly there are Type I, Two, III, 4 and V base of operations stocks. Many "Synthetic" oils are taken from Type Two & III stocks. Mobil 1, certain Trounce and other oils sold in Europe are made from but Type IV & Type V stocks. Supposedly, Mobil 1 is the only oil sold in the US made from these superior base stocks (I should note that Redline and Amsoil supposedly use these improve stocks, only neither meets the latest A5, 229.3, or 229.v specs)
Romer
fatherofdaughterofromer
- Thread starter
- #half-dozen
Hi mileage oils are typically a heavy in class oil (i.e. heavy end of the 30weight range, heavy end of the 40weight range) with actress additives to assist seal sweals and cease leaking. Also many are a synth blend. My thoughts, yous are getting some benefits for the actress coin, but if I were to use a Semi-synth, I would go for the new Mobil Drive Clean Plus
Romer
fatherofdaughterofromer
- Thread starter
- #7
Here are my (RavenTai) two reports, a third sample is on its way to Blackstone:
mediocre Delvac 1 written report
Better M1 15w-l written report
Carry's excellent reports
first M1 0w-40
2nd M1 0w-twoscore
Unfortunately results from unlike labs are not directly comparable, unlike systems give different results, the iv above are from Blackstone
For a short kickoff on reading reports
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gasoline_diesel_report_expl.html
Beginning thing you should exercise is notice a Virgin oil analysis of that oil telling what it started with, with this you lot can meet what was added and what was lost, unfortunately oils change often, specially lately with the new API class "SM", a virgin sample is only comparable if information technology is contempo.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=000122
The verbal alloys of all parts of the 1FZ-Fe are not known to me but wear metals and their possible sources are listed below
Iron: cylinder walls, piston rings, crank, wrist pin, cams (including lobes and gears) valve shims & buckets, oil pump and associated gearing and timing chain,
Aluminum: pistons, cam journals, oil pump cover, timing comprehend and possibly timing chain slipper,
Chromium: possibly in piston rings or other fe/steel parts.
Lead: alloy in creepo bearings
Tin can: alloy in crank bearings & mayhap elsewhere
Copper: alloy in oil pump drive bushing & perchance elsewhere
Silicon: unremarkably from the surroundings as dirt, but can as well weep from sealants, if you have high Silicon and loftier insolubles and wearable metals it generally ways poor air filtration.
Romer
fatherofdaughterofromer
- Thread starter
- #eight
Oil is grouped past the American petroleum institute past qualities of the base stock (a quart of oil is mostly base of operations stock with additives to improve the abilities of the base stock)
Group I is oil with a lot of contaminants
Group II is oil that is relatively clean (most standard oil is in this category)
Grouping 3 is same as group II except information technology has a good viscosity index ( its viscosity does non alter as much with changes in temperature) usually made of severely hydrocracked mineral oil (dino) ,
Group Four is PAO (Polyalphaolefin) it starts as propane, the propane molecules are uniformly put together to brand larger molecules of oil, the manufacturer gets to basically build the hydrocarbon molecule with the properties they want and every molecule is identical. Where as mineral oil is a collection of many types and sizes of hydrocarbon molecules and contaminants
Group V anything else, mainly exotic synthetics, most well known in this group is Redline (mail order/speed shops) witch has an ester base, many turbine engine oils are also in this group
A few years ago Castrol stopped ownership PAO base oil from Mobil and started using Group III as the base for their Syntec line of "synthetic" oil, Mobil complained that they were marketing mineral every bit synthetic and it wound upwardly in arbitration unfortunately Castrol won by showing it was meliorate than dino oil and they needed a way to market that divergence to the public, now most of the other oil companies followed suit, heard recently that i of the other over the counter brands went back to PAO (Penzoil? Quaker State? cant recall, and don't know if it is true) the castrol syntec 0w30 ruddy label imported from Germany is suppose to be something skilful (group Iv or 5) the yellow label 0w30 is same group III, 0w30 is to sparse for me In GA, only anyway other than a few odd balls Mobil 1 is the just commonly availably truthful synthetic
the grouping Three "synthetics" are good oils simply yous are paying full constructed price for something less than synthetic ability, if you are going to get mineral oil that was marketed every bit synthetic might every bit well past normal oil and save a lot of money equally information technology works just fine
Rotella T syn is non as bad a bargain it is merely slightly more than dino when y'all buy information technology by the gallon at Wally world
Mobil 1 is still a Group Four PAO oil. The thread about Mobil ane not being pops upwards about every 2 weeks and is promptly disproved. If you search Mobil's site they still have a whole thing most why PAO is superior, why they don't utilize Group 5 POE base stocks, and that they utilise PAO.
As far equally Rotella Synth, you lot are correct is not a ";true"synthetic according to Europe'southward standards every bit information technology is a Group III Hydrocracked. That said, information technology has been turning in peachy wear numbers (equally have some of the other grouping III oils) and at $12.84 a gallon at Walmart is a proficient deal. Since rotella Synth is a HDEO information technology should have no problem going eight,000 miles per change, especially with the 8 quart sump in the LC.
Romer
fatherofdaughterofromer
- Thread starter
- #ix
Romer
fatherofdaughterofromer
- Thread starter
- #10
Romer
fatherofdaughterofromer
- Thread starter
- #11
( The beneath items are highlights of 3 years of posting by Cary and RavenTai)
- Mobil one 10w-thirty is to thin (thinner than ideal).
- There is really no point in running 20w-50, it is slow to lube on startup and is thicker than needed. The general idea is run the lightest oil that provides acceptable protection. Information technology appears in virtually cases that the heavy 30 weights/light 40weights hit this mark best, providing the everyman wearable numbers in almost motors, protection of the cams and bearings in all circumstances, while not unduly lowering fuel economy and power output
- The EPA requirements are fifty-fifty more strict than what you were told. The EPA at present requires that manufactures 1) fill the autos with the oil that they are tested with, two) listing the weight used every bit the recommended weight, and three) sign a sworn statement (I don't know what the penalty is for violating information technology) that their dealers will apply the weight of oil recommended.
- Later on all of my research I have come to the determination that we should expect at what the Europe/Austrailian recommendations are for oil weight when the aforementioned engine is used worldwide. I volition notation again that he Aus spec says you can use 10w-30, 15w-40, and 20w-50 upward to 100F.
- Mobil 0w-40 appears to be the best choice for worldwide use. My just potential concern (and this is the footnote to a footnote) is that it takes more viscosity modifiers to make a 0w-40 synthetic oil than a 5w-40 or 10w-30. It is the viscosity modifiers that break downward over time and can leave sludge. Given that the 0w-40 is a high quality base of operations stock, and this oil is used past Austin Martin, Mercedes AMG, Porsche, and others as their factory make full oils, I don't call back this is a real world issue. . (Note that Raventai and cary differ slightly here every bit I do not believe that the 0w-40 Synthetic oils made today have any run a risk of sludge problems.)
- Information technology is likewise worth noting that generally, for depression RPM, hi stress engines y'all want a slightly heavier oil, this is why the 5w-20 seems okay for the Honda's.
- I have been shying abroad from the Mobil Xw-30 oils because they are formulated on the light side of 30 weight, about beingness xx weight. If you are looking for a Xw-30 weight, look at Redline, Amsoil (I never thought I would recommend Amsoil), or others. I truly believe for any climate that a Xw-50 oil is overkill for the Landcruiser.
- The idea that synthetics targeted at diesel fuel's use a better base stock than synthetics made for combustion engines is not true. The difference between diesel and combustion oils is the additive and detergency packages. Diesels pollute the oil in different ways than gas engines. Example, Delvac 1 and Mobil 1, aforementioned manufacture, both fabricated with Grouping IV & V base of operations stocks, different additive packet.
- Constructed blends- DON'T Waste YOUR Time. The synthetic "blends"; are a waste. Why, starting time they unremarkably made by the same companies that call their group Iii+ base of operations stock oil "Constructed (Castrol Syntec (except the High german stuff), Valvoline). They then take a blend of their "synthetic" and mix information technology with Grouping II base of operations stock standard oil. The really crummy office is often the "synthetic" office of the oil is but 10-25% of the mix. I would either stick with a good mineral oil (Chevron) and modify it every 3000-4000 or switch to synthetic and go 6000-7500.
If yous insist on going this route, consider using a hi mileage oil instead which will likely take a higher proportion of Grouping 3 or Grouping Four base of operations stocks than the "blends".
- Delvac 1 reports take been good. Mobil has just released their Mobil 1 5w-xl Synthetic SUV oil. Ignoring the name, is appears, and Mobil reps take unofficially confirmed that it is in fact repackaged Delvac ane. This is a great bargain because delvac 1 is only available in 1 gallon containers and runs $six a quart v. the new 5w-xl sells for $4.00-$5.00 a quart.
-
- The Delvac 1 is considered a cracking oil. That said, the view is that for Gas engines that the Delvac has to many additives. The oil won't impairment the motor, but other choices may be better. IF YOU Have A DIESEL this is the stuff to utilize. Also, a reason to avoid Delvac 1 is that it isn't exactly easy to notice. A reason I tend to shy away from boutique oils.
- Apropos 15w-50, there is really no need to run it. The big factor in oil breakup is its High Temperature High Shear ("HTHS") performance at 150c (closely replicates running weather at the cam and bearings). Mostly, Synthetics volition have a much higher HTHS than minerals for the same weight. If you look at the specs for cars in Europe, especially Frg you lot will see gradual change. Information technology used to be that they all recommended 20w-50 for temps in a higher place 32f. The reason was that 10w-40 and other lighter oils would shear down under difficult running conditions and crusade accelerated bearing and camshaft wear (exception the 15w-40 mineral oils which were recommended past Porsche for years and were used as factory make full in 911's from the 1970'southward until the 1990's). At present German cars used in Europe mostly require that the oil used meet ACEA A3 (some new VW and Audi'south are moving to lighter weight A5 oils). The predominant requirement of A3 is that the HTHS exist over iii.5, which M1 0w-40 (iii.vi), M1 5w-40 (four.1), and M1 15w-50 (5.one); note none of the Mobil 1 thirty weight oils meet that standard. Note that all 15w-twoscore oils accept an HTHS of at to the lowest degree 3.5.
- The A3 rated oils simply provide amend lubrication properties, both at startupcam and bearing protection at high temperatures,temps than 20w-50 mineral oils. At the same timenon A3 rated oils also provide ameliorate mileage and lower operating temperatures.. Note that A3 is mutually exclusive of A1 and A5. A1 and A5 oils accept an HTHS of less than 3.5, and then you cannot have an oil that A3 and A5 or A3 and A1 rated.
- Bottom line is that yous desire to run the thinnest oil that provides protection. Reason is that every bit yous get to heavy, vesture rates increase over again. Besides heavy oils increase oil temperatures and exercise not transfer estrus as rapidly. On average the sugariness spot for low wear rates on oils appears to be at the high 30weight depression 40 weight range (i.e. Mobil 0w-forty, German Castrol 0w-30, Amsoil 30 weights, Redline xxx weights). Also note that some of the newer cars (specifically Hondas and the Big Ford V-10 engines) that specify 5w-20 oil from the factory are turning in incredibly low wear numbers on those oils.
- Apropos using Mineral (Dino) oil and changing it every 2000 miles. Don't waste your time and money. The mineral oil is expert for at least 4000 miles before it breaks downwardly. If y'all live in a warmer climate (temps above 40f), run Chevron Delo 15w-40 ($1.25 quart) and change information technology every 6000.
- At that place is no reason to change oil every 3000 miles, except to waste money. If y'all look at the UOA's on Mineral oils, you will meet with the rare exception of certain motors that are very hard on oil that Mineral is practiced to 4000-6000 miles. The LC with an 8 quart sump easily allows for 4000-6000 mile changes on mineral.
- You tin run Rotella T synth out to 7500 with no problems, unless you are in artic conditions, very short trips where the motor never warms upwardly.
- The 5w-30; 10w-30 recommendation are because of US Cafe mileage standards. Same engine overseas recommends xl & l weight for warm and hot weather. That said, yous will not harm the motor using 30 weight oils, just will likely lower wearable slightly and requite an increase margin of safety nether hard running weather with a forty weight.
- I have also heard that synthetics demand less polymer Viscosity Index Improvers, simply for big spans nigh still need some, VII's are the first portions of oil to dethrone, Delvac 1 is suppose to be extremely sheer stable witch would signal that is does not have any Vii's I am not sure how Exxon/Mobil did it, I am still waiting to run into A virgin oil analysis over at bitog to exist certain that the M1 suv is Delvac 1. if so it would exist a nifty bargain cheaper no driving to a truck stop to go it and in quart instead of gallon bottles, I have a similar climate to you lot and correct now it looks like I will be running D1 when I get the new cruiser, before I decided to sell my truck I was going to apply it in it. But I am going to stick with M1 in information technology
- You will have no oil related problems if you change with dino every 3k, synthetics oil is meliorate oil in almost every fashion except cost just will it pay off for y'all? No i can tell yous how much longer your engine would last with constructed vs dino, also you are more than likely a head gasket, wreck, run out oil, transmission failure or the m other things that can happen or but age of the body will crusade yous to go rid of it before the engine internals wears out, in witch case the extra expense is wasted, only for me the engine cleanliness improved gas mileage (very small but offsets some of the price) longer drains and virtually chiefly "that warm fuzzy-I'thousand doing something practiced for my motorcar-feeling." Make synthetic worth it for me
- According to an article from BMW CCA Golden Gate Chapter, where the chief chemist from Redline Oils in a three hour product demonstration apartment out stated that under normal conditions where oil is inverse regularly, it is questionable if at that place is whatever increase in engine life by using synthetic. Advantages of synthetic are cold start, longer change intervals, and protection at the margin.
- Synthetics may increase engine life (annotation that newer motors are getting much more demanding on oil and many REQUIRE synthetic considering of their longer change intervals and need for high hths oils with moderate weights) only for most properly maintained motors, at what indicate? A LC motor with mineral oil changed every 5000 miles will become 300,000+ miles, and then will the Synthetic stretch that to 350,000 miles? Does information technology matter? My only idea is that mayhap the synthetic will keep the motor running better longer through less wear. For instance my Nissan Pathfinder has 185k and starts and runs like a champ. Is this from the lower wear by Mobil 1 or that I am anal about all maintenance?
- .. For reasons unknown, even among the same motor design, some engines work better with 1 oil than another. At that place are those who have had corking luck with 0w-40 and those who their truck sucks information technology down at one quart every one thousand miles. Same goes for the Rotella Synth. Try one of the above, if you take high consumption, then switch. Personally, I don't worry virtually the starting time upwardly rattle, I have it and my UOA's were fabled. As a guy at the local parts place said "all Toyota's exercise that, even our parts truck that has been doing it for 500,000 miles."
- Amisol is a smashing product and I wouldn't hesitate to use information technology. I don't recommend information technology for a few reasons. 1) Information technology is more expensive than Mobil ane, 2) in the UOA'south I have seen, information technology doesn't perform whatsoever better than Mobil 1, and iii) it can be difficult to get for many
- Based on the information I have seen there (bobistheoilguy.com), I will add a few more than comments/suggestions.
ii) Mobil one formulas vary depending on the continent they are from. The sole exception to this is the 0w-40 which is a worldwide oil.
iii) Castrol is now importing Syntec 0w-30 from Germany to the US and Canada. Different the Syntec which has been sold in the past in the Us, this is not a Form Iii crude refined only a top grade Class 4 PAO/Class V Ester stock oil. In add-on this oil runs thick for a 0w-xxx with a cst at 100 of 12.1 (compare that to the Mobil 1 30w with a cst of ten.0). The talk on the lists is that this may be the all-time 30weight oil available in the US. BE Aware THAT Y'all HAVE TO LOOK Carefully TO GET THE CORRECT FORMULA OF THIS. The proper syntec (as opposed to the garbage) will exist 0w-30 with a red label and on the back will say "Made in Germany."Do not purchase whatsoever other syntec besides this.
4) Amsoil is regarded as annihilation from snake oil to pretty good. Nearly of the oil lab testing doesn't show it to exist annihilation spectacular; and
five) For those of you lot looking for heavier than Mobil i 0w40 (which yous shouldn't need), the new Redlineconsider Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5w-forty with, which is slightly thicker and has a csthigher HTHS of 154.one at 100, looks to be very promising according to the initial tests. This oil is fabricated (to the all-time of my knowledge) from simply Form V ester based stocks which are generally considered the best.
6) All of that said, the reason that most of the guys on the bobistheoilguy forum do oil testing (likewise seeing how well is performs) is to see at what point the oil starts breaking downward and should exist inverse. For the synthetics, it appears betwixt 7500 and 15,000 miles is the proper interval. Factors that influence this are 1) oil capacity, the more the engine holds the further between oil changes, two) driving conditions, 3) quality of the oil, and iv) the condition of the engine.
7) In that location is also an interesting consensus concerning oil weight on that board, and it is essentially that as a motor gets older and starts to burn oil, it is okay to go to a heavier weight even though the manufacture may not recommend it.
Romer
fatherofdaughterofromer
- Thread starter
- #12
We will run information technology by cary and/or RavenTai and let you know
Romer
fatherofdaughterofromer
- Thread starter
- #13
devo
- #14
Thanks for the time you put into this. It's very good info.
Being brainwashed on Amziol that I have used for years, I was suprised to non find outstanding results from there oils.
Being an lxxx owner and dealing with the "automobile tranny" where do the ATF's rate in the recommended oil catagory?
devo
RavenTai
- #15
On Amsoil, I recall Cary said it well above, Amsoil's straight contest is Mobil 1, and from what I take seen neither has shown a consistent performance advantage over the other. This is not that surprising as both are Grouping Four (PAO, Polyalphaolefin) base stock with a quality additive package, being approximately the same oil I prefer Mobil 1 as it is widely available and in most cases cheaper.
Amsoil has a different distribution model, if you lot know someone who is a dealer yous may be able to go it cheaper and easier, if so. and you like it, and then utilize information technology,
I have non done a lot of research on ATF, I used Mobil 1 ATF in a previous vehicle and liked it and so went with same in my 80, y'all do not go through equally much ATF so the price is less of a gene. although not exactly conclusive Mobil 1 ATF seams to hold its colour and smell quite well, no leaks & no problems.
IdahoDoug
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2003
- Messages
- 9,030
- #xvi
DougM
Ted44
- #17
Gear Oil Recommendations:
My (cary) recommendation for Gear oil (for the Front, Center and Rear diffs):one) Redline Gear Lube 75w-90- Gear and Tranny Lube are where Redline fabricated their name.
2) Mobil 1 Gear Lube
3) Amsoil Gear Lube
4) Chevron Delo Gear Lube ESI 80W-90 - https://www.cbest.chevron.com/generated/MSDS/PDS7664186.PDFBTW, I accept never seen a darn bit of divergence in Mileage with Synthetics. I simply prefer the added protection and the longer life they give drive train components.
From Romer - Likewise, if you are running a auto locker (Detroit/Aussie/Other) in the rear, running the heavier gear oil (140W) will quiet it down
What most the FSM requirement of Hypoid gear oil? What exactly is Hypoid? Are these synth gear oils equivilent?
Cheers
cruiserdan
SupportingVendor Emeritus
- #18
wallstrum
- Joined
- January 12, 2006
- Messages
- 21
- Location
- Reno, NV
- #19
Gear Oil Recommendations:
My (cary) recommendation for Gear oil (for the Front, Heart and Rear diffs):1) Redline Gear Lube 75w-90- Gear and Tranny Lube are where Redline made their proper name.
what is your have on redline'south heavy shockproof gear oil (<http://world wide web.redlineoil.com/products_gearlubricants.asp?pvID=87&prodID=61&subcatID=twenty>)? this is what i have been using in my diffs / transfer instance for a while... thanks,
wally
RavenTai
- #xx
Some manual transmission do better with GL-iv than GL-v, Gl-five can be also slippery for good operation of some kinds of synchro's slowing shift time, I do not know if this applies to Toyota transmission or not but we do not go to worry most that in the Us.
the other thing abotu gear oil is frictin modifier addative needed for some clutch type lockers and positraction units, our lockers having no clutches have no need for this addative.
Similar threads
Users who are viewing this thread
DOWNLOAD HERE
Which Redline Gear Oil for 2007 C6 Differentia UPDATED
Posted by: gregoryiman1950.blogspot.com
0 comments:
Post a Comment